How's this for a case of identity theft? I went shopping for some geraniums recently and came home with an assortment of pelargoniums.

The labels read ``geraniums.'' The nurseryman called them ``geraniums.'' But an illustrated guide about the geraniaceae botanical family identified them as ``pelargoniums.'' So what's with the name game?

This isn't an instance of 21st-century cyberhacking; it's more a case of motivation lacking. It's a reluctance to drop old habits, to exchange the popular but incorrect name ``geraniums'' for that of ``pelargoniums,'' says Faye Brawner, author of ``Geraniums: The Complete Encyclopedia,'' and president of the International Geranium Society.

``It is safe to say that the vast majority of plants seen and called geraniums in the U.S. are actually pelargoniums,'' she says.

Botany wasn't an exact science when the first geraniums and pelargoniums were introduced en masse into Europe from South Africa in the 17th century. ``The plant collectors lumped everything in as geraniums,'' Brawner says. ``A few years down the road, a French botanist decided there was a difference. Half were geraniums and half were pelargoniums. But geraniums had been called that for so long, people shrugged their shoulders and went along with it. ``Many of them still do,'' she says.

Brawner, from Beverly, Ohio, has spent much of her adult life trying to correct the record. So why does accurate naming matter in this case?

It matters plenty if you're looking for a plant capable of thriving in sun or partial shade; a woodland flower with smallish blooms, carried singly, and ranging in color from white to pink to purple; a mounded plant that will spread into an attractive ground cover, a plant hardy enough to flower through several frosts. That's a true geranium.

But the pelargonium has a lot going for it, too. If you bought what you thought was a geranium and its leaves give off an attractive scent, then it's probably a pelargonium. If you have a plant displaying leaves as colorful as those on a coleus, chances are it's a pelargonium. If it's a stemmed plant, growing upright rather than horizontally, then it's probably a pelargonium.

Pelargoniums come in a wide range of colors, ranging from red and white to salmon and pink, shades of purple to orange and many combinations.

``You can't help people who want a certain plant find it if they don't know what it is,'' Brawner says. ``But if it has the correct name, you can find it.'' Pelargoniums and geraniums are classified as perennials, but the pelargonium actually is a tender perennial, Brawner says.

Use true geraniums for rock gardens or for shady spots. Brawner says. Think pelargoniums if you want a long-blooming plant on a porch or something prominent in flowerbeds, hanging baskets, containers or window boxes.

So, if you hope to see that favorite herbaceous plant of yours survive periods of extreme cold, then ensure that it's a true or a hardy geranium, something like the ``Sanguineum,'' ``Macorrhizum,'' or ``Magnificum.'' If you're looking for a combination of bloom and patterned leaves, think pelargoniums -- ``Valentine,'' ``Greetings,'' ``Blazonry'' and the ``Wirral New Look'' are popular fancy leaf cultivars.

If it's an attractive plant with enticing odors you want, then select ``Candy Dancer'' (rose to lemon rose scent), or the aptly named ``Peppermint,'' ``Apple'' and ``Cinnamon'' cultivars. You also can find a scented pelargonium with some oil of citronella bred into it. This variety is popularly called the ``mosquito shoo'' or ``Citrosa.'' You may see it advertised as a plant containing a natural insect repellant but scientists have not proven that claim to be valid, horticulturists say.

No matter what you come to call them, both plants have a place in your garden, says Br

Recommended reading:

``Geraniums: The Complete Encyclopedia,'' by Faye Brawner. Schiffer Publishing Ltd. List price: $19.95.

On the Net:

For more about geraniums, try the North Carolina State University Department of Horticulture Science Cooperative Extension Web Site: http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/hil/hil-8504.html.

You can contact Dean Fosdick at deanfosdick(at)netscape.net.

This hutch has plenty of eye-catching features, starting with the granite countertop, which is elegantly curved to cover the dresser-drawer component in the center. Turned legs support the dresser to add to the furniture look. It is flanked by open shelves for sliding baskets as well as more drawer and cabinet space for table covers and decorations.

The upper unit is delicately crafted with plate rack display, cute cubbies and glass-doored cabinets with shelves to give a sneak peak at collectables. The crown moulding above is set off by the uplighting to complete the classic look of this handsome hutch.

(Photo by Mark Englund) www.lifestylehomedesign.com

Barbecuing is an art. There are several factors that can make for great grilling. None of these is particularly difficult; however, a combination of the right factors can make you a ``grilling hero.''

First, always have enough fuel on hand. Often, cooking out is a spur of the moment thing and not having enough charcoal can quickly take all the sizzle out of your excitement. What's worse is being in the middle of grilling a beautiful meal and running out of propane, leaving you with a half-cooked meal. Yikes!

This sort of inconvenience and embarrassment can be avoided simply by having plenty of fuel on hand. Always have an extra unopened bag of charcoal around and invest in a second bottle of propane that can be rotated when you run out. An alternative to a second bottle of propane is to keep close tabs on the amount of propane left in the tank.

Our favorite method only requires a sponge and some water. On a warm day, just wipe your propane tank with a wet sponge. The water will evaporate more quickly on the empty part of the tank, and the water will remain on the cooler, filled portion. You'll know exactly how much propane is left in the tank.

Another method is to bring out the bathroom scale and weigh the tank. Then use this formula to estimate how much cooking time is left. Twenty-pound tanks weigh about 18 pounds empty and 38 pounds when full. The average gas grill burns a pound of propane every 30 minutes, or 10 hours on a full tank. So, if yours weighs 24 pounds, you have six pounds of propane left. That's good for three hours of cooking. Sounds a bit complicated, but after you've done it once or twice you'll get the hang of it.

Or, for about the same cost as an additional tank (about $25), you can purchase a propane gas gauge that attaches to the tank and will let you know when fuel is running low at a simple glance.

With plenty of fuel, you'll be able to make a good hot fire, which is an absolute necessity to cleaning the grate. Aside from being unsightly, a dirty grate causes food to stick and can make grilling a real chore.

Here's a grate-cleaning trick that we learned many years ago that makes easy work of a dirty grate. Step one involves getting the grill hot. To do this, place a layer of aluminum foil on top of the grate, leaving a gap of about one inch at the entire perimeter. The foil acts to trap heat and results in super-heating the grate. Be sure to leave a gap at the perimeter or the extreme heat can damage your equipment. The idea is to get the grate as hot as possible.

Next, carefully remove the foil and brush the grill with a wire brush. Dip the brush in a bowl of water before running along the grate. The wet brush is quickly swiped onto and along the grates. As the water touches the hot surface, it instantly turns to a gas and ``steam-cleans'' the area. In addition, the cold water causes the super hot grate to instantly contract and baked-on food pops right off.

We like to use a two-inch square brush on a long handle. The square brush end is small enough to dip into a small bowl of water, and the long handle prevents hair loss on hands and arms while stroking the grates. Although a wire brush is used to apply the water, using it as a scrubber really isn't required. The water does all the work.

One other method of grill cleaning that works well for us is using a grilling cleaning block of recycled material that feels like volcanic tuff (that light and airy rock). We get the grate good and hot as described above and then rub the block up and down in the direction of the grate. The neat thing about the grill-cleaning block is that it takes the shape of the grate and removes any minute material that a wire brush might leave behind. We make sure to wear a large oven mitt to prevent getting burned.

With lots of fuel and a clean grate, the final step between you and a sizzling steak is to season the grate to prevent food from sticking. We use a couple of paper towels folded over into a neat square and spray one side with an ample amount of nonstick cooking spray. Wearing an oven mitt, we place the paper towel (cooking spray down) between the grate and a long handled barbecue brush and rub the paper towel over the entire surface of the grate.

All that's left is some good eating!

A: It really doesn't make any difference how the connection occurs between the tub and the tub and the shower walls as long as the joint is properly caulked. Having said that, the big deal is getting rid of the old mildewed caulk and properly applying a new layer.

Use caulk solvent to get the old stuff out. Then clean the connection with a scrub brush and lots of chlorine bleach. Rinse with water and use a hair dryer to completely dry everything out. Wait 24 hours and apply a new coat of silicone caulk to the joint. Wait the 24 hours even if it means renting a hotel room to take a shower. Caulk will not bond to a wet surface or where water vapors are present.

The next time you clean your shower walls -- make sure that they are perfectly spotless -- apply a coat of car wax. The wax reduces surface tension and makes cleaning easier. Some folks use pure lemon oil instead of the wax, but we like the wax.

Q: I have white laminate countertops. They are in good condition, other than stained. Everything tends to stain them. I have tried bleach, which tends to yellow the surface and replacing them would be prohibitively expensive. So, I am wondering if there is a product or method you recommend to refinish them? -- Maxine from Stockbridge, Ga.

A: We recently came across a product at the National Hardware Show. Krylon has created a new paint that they claim will work on plastic laminate surfaces. You can try this product or just use good old Ivory liquid soap and a stiff nylon bristle brush to work out the stain.

Q: I have a plumbing problem wherein the toilet appears to bubble up water and the bowl completely fills with water upon flushing. It requires about 30 minutes for the water to drain out. When it does, it almost completely drains out. I have tried using a plunger, but to no avail. Please advise. -- Crystal

A: It sounds like you have a clog somewhere in your sewer line. To clear a clog you have to be smarter than the toilet.

First, get a mirror and use it to look deep into your toilet's drain. If you see nothing, the next step is to remove the toilet and see if anything is stuck in the lower portion of its drain. If the toilet is A-OK, then the next step is to use a "closet auger'' (a short flexible coil spring cable that is used to dislodge debris in a sewer line).

It's usually pretty safe for a DIYer to attempt to dislodge debris with a closet auger. A closet auger is made for short cleaning runs and doesn't have the potential to damage a sewer line like its full-size big brother. The sales clerk at the hardware store can explain how to use the smaller device.

Once the sewer line has been cleaned, the toilet will have to be reinstalled.

Don't forget to use a new wax ring to create a watertight seal between the toilet and the sewer line -- this is one place you definitely don't want a leak. The old wax ring will most certainly leak. A closet auger often solves the problem, eliminating the need to call a plumber.

Q: I built my home four years ago in accordance with strict county and state energy requirements. My problem is condensation in the crawlspace, along the foundation wall on the north side of the house during the winter months. The moisture is wetting my rim joist, floor joists, insulation, and mud sill. I installed more foundation vents, but this hasn't helped. Do you have any suggestions? -- Stephen

A: The good news is that the energy-efficient techniques that were employed in the construction of your home have helped to create living space that is less drafty and more comfortable. The bad news is that while the home is less drafty, the crawlspace is also less drafty, permitting a build-up of moisture and condensation.

The fact that you have an abundance of moisture and condensation is evidence that there is a lack of ventilation in the sub-area or crawlspace of your home. It sounds like you have already employed step one of our recommendations -- the installation of additional foundation vents at the perimeter of the home.

If this doesn't work, and it sounds as if it hasn't, then we suggest you install a layer of six-mil (that's the thickness) polyethylene right on top of the ground in the crawlspace. You'll want to be sure to carefully cut around any interior piers, leaving enough excess material so you can tape a "collar'' around these piers to minimize the transfer of air. All seams should be lapped a minimum of six inches and taped with an industrial-strength tape. Duct tape like that used by heating contractors will do just fine. Most major hardware stores or home improvement centers will have just what you need.

If this doesn't solve the problem, consider contacting a heating and sheetmetal contractor and examine the possibility of an auxiliary fan in the crawl space, which, in combination with the other preventive steps, should do the trick.

Q: I live in a 57-year-old home, heated by the original "gravity'' furnace installed when the home was built. During the winter months, water condensation appears on some of the windows, usually clearing later on in the morning as the outside temperature rises. I have attributed this condensation to the difference in the inside and outside temperatures, especially since it disappears when the weather warms and is closer to the same as inside the house. However, I was told recently that "fumes'' leaking from the furnace are causing the condensation. A furnace installation man confirmed this but I wonder if he was trying to sell me a new furnace.

This just doesn't sound right to me. I hate to replace what I have with a new system not only because of the expense but also this old gravity system provides such comfortable even heating with a quiet operation. I wonder is some other factors might be the cause of the window moisture. What is your opinion? -- Jean

A: Pardon the grammar, but if ain't broke don't fix it! The fact that you are experiencing condensation on the interior of the windows in your home is of no surprise to us especially considering the age of the home and the type of heating that exists.

Chances are that unless you have replaced the original windows in the home with new insulated units or have installed storm windows, you are more susceptible to condensation for the very reasons you stated in your letter. The vast difference in temperature between the interior of your home in the morning (usually very warm), and the exterior (usually very cold), results in condensation or "sweating'' at the location where this exchange occurs -- on the inside of your windows. Thermal pane or insulated windows that contain an air space between two separate panes of glass are designed to minimize the transfer of air thereby significantly reducing the condition for condensation to occur.

Another likely reason that you are experiencing this condition is a lack of ventilation or air circulation in your home. Unlike modern gas-fired forced air furnaces that contain blowers that move the air throughout the home, your little gem depends on gravity to heat the home. Now we're not knocking your gravity furnace we just want you to be aware that one of its drawbacks may be contributing to your problem. And your furnace installer was partially correct when he suggested that the "fumes'' leaking from the furnace were contributing to the condition. We believe that what he was implying was that there is a certain level of condensation that is released as a result of the natural gas burn off in your furnace, although chances are that this is only a fraction of the problem.

We suggest that before you consider replacing what has served you well for many years that you look into the addition of a thermal pane to your existing windows and or the installation of an auxiliary fan that will significantly improve the movement of air in your home.

Your local gas and electric office should be able to assist with information regarding your windows while a call to a reputable heating and sheetmetal contractor should address the fan.

Q: I am shopping for a burglar alarm system and am looking for a little insight. I would appreciate any help that you could offer. -- Nathan

A: Don't be "alarmed,'' but there is no such thing as an absolutely burglar-proof alarm system. However, a good alarm system will help deter or at least detect most burglars, and will give you peace of mind. According to the National Burglar and Fire Alarm Association, the best alarm system protects the entire perimeter of a home (that is, every door and window where entry may be made) and areas inside where valuables are kept.

Most reputable alarm companies will install and maintain a local alarm system which will ring a bell or sound a siren or buzzer on the premises.

Many firms also provide central reporting alarms which silently signal the alarm company's headquarters to dispatch police or perhaps alarm company agents. Some companies will offer direct alarm connection to the local police or fire department, if permitted by local law.

The basic home-protection system is a simple closed-circuit loop system consisting of contacts on doors and windows. There is also a choice of additional interior protection using pressure mats, photoelectric beams, ultrasonic, infrared and microwave systems and other motion or space-detection devices. Most residential systems are designed to ring a bell or illuminate the area to scare off an intruder.

Remember, never sign a contract that does not specifically detail the points of protection and does not itemize the equipment to be installed.

Q: The chimney in our 80-year-old house is "sweating.'' Brown juice is coming through the bricks of the chimney and seeping down the wall of our bedroom. There is no odor but it dries crusty. We have had roofers and the gas company come out to look at it and they are stumped. Can you suggest something? -- Blanche

A: It sounds like there may be a leak in the metal flashing that surrounds the chimney that is allowing water to dampen the framing. Another possibility might be a damaged chimney flu. Creosote and soot could be wet from rain and carried through cracks in the flue and then through cracks in the brick or mortar of the chimney and down your bedroom wall.

We suggest that you have a chimney sweep inspect and clean the fireplace and flue and make any repairs that may be needed. If this doesn't solve the problem, have the flashing that surrounds the chimney at the roof water tested for leaks.

Send your questions to careybro@onthehouse.com.